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鞣しとは

革に柔らかいと書いて”鞣し”(なめし)です。
皮を革になめす”タンナー”のことを鞣製業とも言います。

食肉文化の副産物として(一部例外もあります)供せられる動物皮を、なめすことによって腐らなくし、素材として使用できるようにすることを意味します。

そもそもコラーゲンたんぱく質繊維でできた動物皮です。これをワインやお茶や柿の渋と同じポリフェノールでなめす植物タンニンなめしや、重金属系化合物によってなめすクロムなめしなどによって皮革にします。縦糸横糸で織ることで素材となる他の繊維と同じように、1枚1枚異なる原料皮を如何に均一になめすことができるのかが、近代皮革製造には求められてきました。

近代的ななめしが行われるように成ったのは数百年前と聞いていますが、実際にクロムなめしが開発されてからは、まだ100年ほどしか経っていません。アザラシの皮を口で噛んでなめしたエスキモーの話とか、鶏糞でなめす方法とか、甲州印伝のように燻してなめす方法とか・・・様々な歴史話しはとても興味深いものです。

アザラシで思い出しましたが、私の祖父はその昔、北海道までアザラシの皮を買い付けに行ったことがあったそうです。いったい何に使われたのか、どんななめしをしたのだろうか、と半世紀以上前の資料がないため判りませんが、当時の交通事情からもかなりの苦労であった事がうかがえます。

この様に「原料皮」と「なめし剤」によって鞣しは行われますが、もうひとつ忘れてはならない重要な要素として「水」があります 水が無ければ、なめしはできません。 日本では工業用水が水道局から供給され、なめしに使用することができます 潤沢に供給される水に、私たちタンナーは日々感謝をしながらなめしを行っているのです

化学繊維や合成皮革とは全く異なる天然皮革。その作り方「鞣し」は、工業的な製造背景で営まれている今日でも、どこか神秘的な生産物とも思えます。 貴重な天然資源「皮革」を生かすことが、その権利を有する私たちタンナーの存在意義とも言えるのです。


 
 
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