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革づくりは脱毛から始まる

革のなめしは1→2→3→4で、1→2→4→3は出来ない、とよく言われました。 つまり「やり忘れたから」「中途半端だったので、戻ってもう一回」は、革づくりではありえないと言うことです。

革がなめし上がって表面に塗装する仕上げ工程であれば、例えば重ね塗りをして色を整えるとか、万一吹き付け斑が出た場合もシンナーでふき取ったり、最悪もう一度染色ドラムに戻して表面塗装を洗い流したりが可能です。 しかし、なめしは皮と薬品とを化学反応させ、前後の工程がすべて密接にかかわっているため後戻りは一切出来ないのです。

その最たる例が、脱毛です。 脱毛は、なめし前の準備工程の一番最初に行うものです。 石灰を入れて毛穴を開き、硫化で毛を溶かす工程は、その後の工程では挟み込むことが出来ません。 すなわち、最初の脱毛が悪ければ最後まで毛が残ってしまいます これは性質が悪く、ザラザラと嫌な表面感になります。

1→2→3→4と、日々の繰り返しですが、コレがテンポ良く進むときほど、なめし上がりの良い革になります。

予断ですが、私の祖母は昔、その毛を削いでゴザに広げ天日干しをして販売したそうです。 さて、何に使われたと思いますか?

正解は、ブラシです。 今でも豚毛の高級な歯ブラシを見かけることがありますが、当時は革よりも高く売れた・・・と聞いています。 今現在では、国内では何処を見渡しても、その作業をしているところは無さそうです。


 
 
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