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軽さは なめしで決まる

最近、軽くなければバッグが売れない!とよく聞きます。 ブランドに憧れている時には多少重くても、という気持ちになりますが、実際に普段使用するバッグはやはり軽いほうが使いやすいのは誰も一緒と思います。

そうなると「革製品は重いので」・・・とならないために、書いてます

革は厚みも仕上げも種類によって異なるため、軽さを計る尺度として比重を中心に考えてみたいと思います。

実際に、世界中に数万数億と数え切れないくらい出回っている革素材のすべてを測ることは出来ないので、革の比重を軽くするために考えられるポイントを何点かご紹介します。

①パンチングによるデザイン性も兼ねた軽くする方法
基本的な方法です。物理的な作業だけで誰もが軽さを手に入れることが出来ます 詳しく説明する必要も無いでしょう。

②植物タンニンなめし(ラセッテー製法)による方法
世界中でも日本国内でも約9割のタンナーが採用しているクロムなめし。その理由に簡単になめせる薬品の登場とコラーゲンたんぱく質の繊維を強靭に結びつける鞣しの特徴があります。
一方、植物タンニンなめしは、一般的に木の樹皮など天然成分のなめし剤が繊維と繊維の間に入り込み革を厚く硬くすることから得てして”重い”という印象で受け取られがちです。 しかし、これは意外だったのですが、実際の比重では植物タンニンなめしをした革の方が約1割も軽かったのです。
これは私のなめした革で比べたので、他のタンナーの場合は違う結果になるかもしれませんが、繊維を強靭に絞めて作られるよりも、繊維の間を軽いタンニング剤でつなぐ方が軽くなるのは理にかなっていると思います。

③染色脂を少なくする方法
これはかなり上級編の方法です。 脂を入れなければ硬くなります。脂を減らして革を柔らかくするには、なめしの準備工程で工夫をする必要があります。 多分、どのタンナーも知っているはずなので詳しくは述べません もちろん準備工程だけではなく、一連の工程が重要です。


 
 
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