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白と黒の染色

白と黒の革では、どちらがより多くのコストがかかるでしょうか?
ピッグスキンのクロムなめし革200枚を染色する場合を例にとってご説明します。

まず白を染色する場合 クスミが出ないように、また芯通しの必要がないのでPH調整のアンモニア水は使用しません。 使用するのは、均色剤2kgと白くするための合成タンニン3kg。そこに染料をオレンジと黄色を混ぜて合計30gほど。

3時間回転させてから、色を吸着させるギ酸を1kg入れて、軽く水洗いをして出来上がりです。

一方、黒の染色の場合 芯通しを良くするためにアンモニア水を4kg。均色剤を2kg。そこに染料を加えますが、ここからが白と大きな違いが出てきます。 オレンジ1.5kg、ダークブラウン1.5kg、芯通し用の黒2.5kg。8時間回転させてその後一晩漬け込み、芯まで色が入るようにします。 芯通し用の黒の染料が、かなり青味を持っているためオレンジやダークブラウンを加えるのです。

翌朝、芯に染料が入っているかを確認後、ギ酸4kgで色を定着させます。その後、表面も黒くするための上乗せ染色に入ります。 ギ酸を入れてから15分後に80℃のお湯を足してドラム内を高温にします。そして上乗せ染料が吸着しやすいように助剤を2kg投入し、30分後に上乗せ染料の黒を2.5kg入れます。さらに15分後に再度ギ酸を4kg足して、30分回転後色落ちがなくなるように10~15分かけてドラム内の革を水洗いします。

一覧表にした方がわかりやすかったですね。 でも、コレだけ使用する薬品も時間も手間も、白と黒とでは異なるのです

ところが、実際に市場価格では、黒の方が安い場合もあります。 理由は、黒が一番売れるから。タンナーが利益を出そうと思ったら、まず黒を染めないことです。 そうも言えないので、「みなさん、明るい色のファッションを楽しみましょう!」


 
 
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