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植物タンニンなめしとクロムなめし

世界的にも日本でも、その9割以上のタンナーが採用しているのがクロムなめしです。100年近く前に開発されたクロムなめし技術は、ノーベル賞ものと言われるほど素晴らしいなめし技術です。

その特徴として
①皮のコラーゲンたんぱく質繊維を架橋させ強靭な繊維を構成することで、薄くても引き裂き強度が強い革を作ることが可能
②染色時の発色性がよく、ファッション素材として十分使用できる
③耐熱温度が高く、様々な加工や製品製法に対応可能
④簡易的ななめしの実現で、コストパフォーマンスに優れる
⑤ソフトな風合いを表現しやすい
・・・など、が挙げられます。

一方、植物タンニンなめしの特徴は
①植物タンニンが繊維の間に入り込むため、肉厚で腰の強い風合いを実現
②使い込むほどに味わいの出る革らしい表現が可能
③磨く、焼くという後加工が可能
④型押し(エンボス)加工に相性がよく、型が非常に良く入る
・・・など。

もう一点、ご紹介したい第三のなめし製法もありますが、それはまた別ページで。

それぞれの欠点についても触れておかなければなりませんが、欠点が使用方法によっては利点となる場合もありますことお含み置き下さい。

まず、クロムなめし
・重金属系のなめしのため、アレルギー体質の方には不向きの場合がある。
ちなみに、革屋の息子の私もそれです。クロムなめしの革が濡れているときは極力素手で触らないようにしています
・革からの溶出量によっては、日本エコレザー基準の有害物質に抵触する場合がある
・型押し(エンボス加工)が効きにくい
・・・など。

植物タンニンの場合は
・薄くすると裂けやすい
・臭いが気になることがある
・日焼け速度、いわゆる耐光性が劣る ・硬い風合いは可能だが、ソフトな風合いは出しにくい
・耐熱温度が低く、加工や製法を選ぶ必要がある
・・・など。

さてさて、どちらが優れているとも一概には言えない両なめし製法 どちらも魅力的な素晴らしい技術です。 他にもコンビネーションなめしや合成タンニンなめしなど、各タンナーごとにアレンジをしている製法もあります。 ローテクに思われがちなタンナーの仕事ですが、感性を研ぎ澄まし時代に対応することを求められる”常に勉強”を必要とする業種でもあるのです。


 
 
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