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友禅染め、藍染、泥染め

どれも革でも可能な染色方法です。

「友禅染め」
友禅染めは、最後に高温の蒸気をかけて色を発色させたり定着させるらしく、植物タンニンなめしの革では無理と言われてきましたが、唯一ラセッテーなめしの革は大丈夫でした (もっともラセッテーなめしの革は、スニーカーを作る際に140℃の釜に入れて整形するときも大丈夫ななめし製法なので、問題は無しです)
そのため、ラセッテーなめしをしたピッグスキンのスエード面に施した友禅染は、植物タンニンなめしによるあたたかで、ふっくらとした風合いを持った素晴らしい革になり、ヒロコ・コシノさんに東京コレクションでご指名を頂いたほどです。

「藍染め」
京都で染色をしてくれました 。これも、クロムなめしの革では色々とトライされているため植物タンニンなめしで挑戦しようとラセッテーなめしをしたピッグスキンで試しました。 絞ったり挟んだりと技法があるようですが、こちらも上手く藍色に染まりました 。藍染めは、どんな素材でも色落ちが気になるところですが、革の場合、表面に薄幕のウレタンバインダーで仕上げることで色落ちをとめることが出来ます。

「泥染め」
奄美大島の技術「泥染め」。土中の蹉跌とタンニンを反応させて薄黒色に染め上げる製法ですが、これも植物タンニンを使用するラセッテーなめしで実現しました。 本場、奄美大島で染めてくれましたが、それはそれは素晴らしい色に仕上がりました 。すでにパリの展示会等にデビューし、製品化も進んでいます。

日本古来の製法と皮革なめし技術の融合によって、日本特有の素材が出来上がります。 機械染色やインクジェットプリントでは出せない、独特のにおいや風合いを生かす技術の競演。出来上がる製品からは、人の手のあたたかさが伝わってきます。


 
 
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