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タンナーと染め屋

革屋というと、かなり広範囲を対象とする流通過程を指しますが、そんな中でもタンナーと染め屋について少しお話します。

言ってしまえば何も難しいことではないのですが、タンナーは”なめし”をすることができて、染め屋は染色や仕上げのみを行うところです。もちろんタンナーでも染色や仕上げ加工もしますし、染め屋でも染色を行わずプリントなど後加工のみをするところもあるため、言葉だけでは区別しにくいのが実情です。

なめしをするには化成場許可証と言うのが必要で、さらに排水設備も整えなければいけません。もちろん染め屋も排水設備を相応に必要としますが、タンナーの設備ほどは必要ありません。水(を使う量が大きく異なるからです。”なめし””染色”は化学的に皮を処理する工程が殆どであるから仕方がありませんが、工場自体を切り回すコスト面から言うとタンナーは非常に経費がかかる仕事です。

2011年の時点で、東京のピッグスキンタンナーは約10件(稼動ベース)。以前は60~70件もあったのですが、廃業や染め屋に転向してしまい減少してしまいました 原因は上述のコスト面もありますが、タンナーは”なまもの”を取り扱うため、必要なだけ仕入れてということができないのも理由のひとつにあげられます 仕事が入ったときだけ作業をする訳には行かず、常に工場を回転させる必要があります。

なめしを行うこと自体が非常にデリケートで神経も体力も使う仕事です。各タンナーの職人技量で皮の良し悪しが決まる面白さがあることは、タンナーの魅力と言えます。

染め屋も決してゆるい環境にはありません。 常に新しいものを追い続けるファッション業界の流れに入り込んだら大変です。特にどこでもできるような仕上げ加工では差別化が図れず、あっという間に相手にされなくなってしまいます。


 
 
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