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スエードとヌバックの違い

スエードもヌバックもコラーゲンたんぱく質の繊維を起毛させた毛足のある革です。
元々ある動物の体毛ではなく、繊維を毛羽立てたものです。

同じように混同して使用されることが稀にありますが、ここでは製法から区別する正しい解釈をご説明します。

まず、スエード。 スエードは、皮の裏面、すなわち肉面を使用した革のことを言います。豚皮であれば、なめし終えてから表皮のある銀面の逆、すなわち裏側の肉面をシェービングで厚みをあわせた後、大きな紙やすりの機械でペーパーがけをして起毛させます。 その後、染色をして色をつけていきます

一方、ヌバック。 ヌバックは、皮の表皮に近いところを使用します。 これも同様に豚皮で説明しますが、なめし終えた革の表皮を0.3mmほど漉き、表皮をとってしまいます。 その後、スエードと同様にペーパー掛けをして起毛し染色の工程に進みます。

つまり、ヌバックは表皮の銀面を剥いで作り、スエードは反対に肉面を使用するということ。 そのためヌバックは、表皮の緻密な繊維層に近いため毛足も細やかで毛穴が目立たない革になり、スエードは肉面のラフな繊維を毛羽立てるため、長めの毛足を持つことが特徴となります。

デザインに応じて使い分けることが出来ますが、ヌバックは皮の厚みを1mm以上に保つことができるので靴のアッパーでよく利用されます。 スエードは、革厚が薄ければ薄いほど、毛穴が目立たなく毛足も綺麗に揃うので、大体0.6mmぐらいのフィニッシュを目指すため、用途は服やバッグ、また婦人用の靴などで使用されます。

長年継続してスポーツシューズ用にオーダーを頂いています 軽くて柔らかいスエードを作るには、それなりにコストと労力が必要です。 もちろんノウハウもネ!


 
 
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